Mythical elegant: Jonathan Anderson's Loewe menswear spells magic in Paris

By THOMAS ADAMSON

Fashion Writer

PARIS-- Golden feathers cascaded down designs' concealed faces Saturday, which opened Loewe and evoked the myths, setting the stage for Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson's more refined and suppressed collection this season. This was an essential Anderson relocation, mixing whimsical artistry with haute couture. Moments of poetry was plentiful, as typical. A stiff sleeveless pearl vest and another looking like armor, almost sculptural in its existence, sparkled like iridescent fish. This was Anderson at his best, producing overstated, sculptural silhouettes that are a hallmark of his Loewe tenure. In other places, Asian cross-over designs and delicious turban-like headwear produced a distinctively progressive atmosphere for designer Kiko Kostadinov's newest collection.