For several years, yellow raisins have been a welcome sweet, chewy element in my coleslaw concoctions. I toss them in higgledy-piggledy, without the conventional take in warm water to make them tender. Thumbing through Chef Geoffrey Zakarian's cookbook, "Town Country" (Clarkson Potter), his coleslaw recipe caught my eye.

His formula uses golden raisins, not just included, however gently caramelized in butter. Picture.

I like his method. The raisins are delicious, buttery and a little toasty, and they team perfectly with a ginger-spiked dressing. Zakarian recommends that the slaw partners best with a great hamburger. Due to the tender nature of Savoy cabbage, he advises making it no more than 1 to 2 hours in advance, just long enough to chill.

Gingered Coleslaw with Golden Raisins

Yield: 6 portions

COMPONENTS

About 3/4 of a little head of Savoy cabbage, quartered, cored

1 tablespoon finely minced fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, carefully minced (about 1 1/2 teaspoons).

3 tablespoons mayonnaise.

1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar, plus more if needed.

1 teaspoon granulated sugar.

Salt and pepper to taste.

2/3 cup shredded peeled carrot.

1 tablespoon butter.

1/4 cup yellow (golden) raisins.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. You will require about 6 cups.

2. In a large bowl, combine ginger, garlic, mayo, vinegar, sugar, pepper, and salt. Stir to integrate. If needed, taste and include more vinegar. Add cabbage and carrots. Toss.

3. Heat butter in a medium-small skillet on medium heat. Include raisins and cook till soft and golden brown, about 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Include warm raisins to the slaw and toss well. Taste and change spices if required. Cover and chill till prepared to serve.

Source: Adapted from "Town Country" by Geoffrey Zakarian (Clarkson Potter, $37.50).

Cooking question? Contact Cathy Thomas at cathythomascooks@gmail.com.